By Stephanie Foster

When I won the lottery, I cried. But it wasn’t a big jackpot;
it was a residency in a Provincetown Dune Shack. I was thrilled, until
the reality hit me. There was no electricity, running water or indoor
toilet. My friends were excited too. “Are you crazy?” they
asked. I was a senior citizen, not a Girl Scout.
C-Scape overseer, Tom Boland loaded my belongings in his truck in late
October. I looked as if I was going to Antarctica. He didn’t say
a word. The pale dunes looked dramatic against the bleak sky. Then, the
two-room shack appeared in the distance. Up close, The doorknob hung
from the door like an eyeball out of its socket. inside the paint was
beyond peeling. This was not rustic Ralph Lauren Land. This was the real
thing.
I quickly became acquainted with kerosene, propane and wood and put
the word, “combustible” out of my mind. Outside, Tom pointed
out the composting toilet, a plastic bag he called a solar shower and
the water pump, where I learned what “priming the pump” meant.
I was now ready for my dune shack experience.
Saturday
I brought linens, flashlights, warm clothes, bottled water and enough
food to feed the crew of a capsized ship. I stuff newspaper into window
cracks and hang a blanket between the two rooms. The living room is
toasty but I can still see my breath in the kitchen. When I look at
the chair covered with a puffy blue throw of unknown origin, the words,
bugs and pestilence come to mind. I am reluctant to sit in it. I never
realized what a priss I was.
Sunday
A howling storm wakes me. The shack is trembling as if it had a terrible
fever. Outside the wind screams like an angry, crazed animal. I huddle
in the dark, wondering if the shack will collapse around me. In daylight,
it seems sturdier.
It’s slowly becoming home. A lemon sits on the window sill along
with a glass of fresh herbs in water. Shell necklaces I made decorate
the wall. Beachcombing treasures line the deck. The creepy-crawly chair
turned out to be Cloud Nine. And so far there are no mice.
I walk to the beach in hopes of finding scallops washed ashore. Yum-de-dum-dum.
But there are only coyote tracks in sand that has been swept clean by
the storm.
Monday
I am counting my sins. Last night, I left half-a-cookie on the counter.
The sin was not that I ate half of the cookie. No. It was that I left
half for the mice. I was warned to hang my food from the ceiling and
keep it in tins because there was no way to keep the mice out. I also
left dirty dishes in the sink. That’s what happens after one
day without a mouse sighting. A body gets lax.
At dawn when I get up, the cookie is untouched. I still had time to
repent. Outside, the sunrise is a gigantic watercolor spread across the
sky. A huge finger painting of dark inky clouds. It’s too moody
to be a pretty and too contrasty for a camera to capture. Words are inadequate
to describe the beauty. Like saying the word chocolate rather than eating
it.
Tom surprises me with a visit at dinnertime. There is a hurricane warning,
do I want to evacuate? I can hear and feel the pounding waves inside
the dune shack. Since the tsunami in Asia, I am deeply afraid of them.
But I stay.
Tuesday
Well, shiver me timbers. What a storm! I lie in bed, frozen with fear,
as if there were a monster under the bed. My body is paralyzed while
my mind reviews every possible calamity, from a rogue wave cresting
the dunes, to the roof blowing off.
It rages all day making my chair shimmy and the kerosene slosh in the
lantern. Meanwhile I read “The Outermost House” and it is
as if Henry Beston is sitting beside me.
“The North Atlantic was a convulsion of elemental fury whipped
by the sleety wind, the great parallels of the breakers tumbling all
together and mingling in one seething and immense confusion, the sound
of this mile of surf being an endless booming roar, a seethe and a dread
grinding, all intertwined with the high scream of the wind.”
Wednesday
Today the shack is filled with silence. I walk, fill the water jugs,
bring in wood. I love this simple life. Clothes don’t matter
or how I look.
My body is merely a container for my spirit.
There is no stress or strife.
Just peace.
Why can’t life be like this all the time?
The sun vanquishes the brooding quality of the landscape. The surf is
frothy and playful. Puffy white clouds scoot across the blue sky. Photographs
come and go before I can focus my camera. I want to share the beauty
of the ocean, sky and dunes. No wonder artists come here.
Thursday
My diary entries are shorter now.
There is less chatter going on in my head.
I forget to brush my teeth and hair, I’m so preoccupied with my
inner life. My thoughts come like raindrops. First there is one. Splat.
Then another. Splat. Only a van heading up the beach with fishing poles
on top, reminds me that there is another world out there. I enjoy my
small life, searching for kindling, pumping water, tending the stove.
I have a need to work and be worthy. I find a staff and use it as a walking
stick. I have been reborn as a pioneer woman.
Friday
Night sounds make me think- MICE. A squeak or squeal in the rafters -
MICE! A rattling of a window pane - MICE! During the day, loose tarpaper
rubs against the roof. wood shrinks and expands. But at night it is
a mouse.
I watch the swallows swoop low over the dunes and up again, over and
over. Their dark wings arch like boomerangs as they soar through the
sky.
Is it laziness that makes me linger or awe?
I have started packing, so I will have more time tomorrow But I’m
only exchanging one minute for another.
Saturday
During my final walk on the beach, a gull flies overhead, wings outstretched
in the thermals. He is soaring for the sheer joy of it. I will try
to remember this joy of exercise, the next time I’m looking for
a parking space at the mall.
It is time to go. I see signs of other residents in the dune shack who
have been there before me. A bracelet composed of sea glass, pretty painted
stones, collections of shells. Everyone wants to leave a trace of themselves
behind. I place my walking staff by the woodpile and leave a tiny glass
vase on the narrow windowsill. Alas, I also leave my heart. |